Yannick Alléno's Terroir Parisien, an expression of the French genius for the art of living
27 October 2009
"For Yannick Alléno, the gastronomy of this new century must consciously integrate a concern for healthy eating - applied to the region’s finest produce - that appeals to all tastes and dispositions, and won’t put a strain on anyone’s appetite, or budget." Jean Claude Ribaut
The original Parisian palace hotel, for almost 200 years Le Meurice has entwined its history with the history of France, and with the cultural and gastronomic evocations of Paris. Day after day, Yannick Alléno applies himself to elevating Cuisine to the rank of fine art. In doing so, he confirms Le Meurice as the expression of French Genius for the art of living. Yannick Alléno has chosen to reawaken this Parisian cuisine, with its many wonderful and legendary recipes, but also to continue writing its history by creating innovative dishes from exceptional Parisian ingredients. The result is his Terroir Parisien lunch menu at the Le Meurice restaurant: a true tribute to the land of Paris and its region, and to all those who serve it so well. The infinite culinary riches of the Paris Basin… Yannick Alléno’s love of Paris, its flavours and colours is such that he has sought out the origins of its cuisine, to remind us of why it is so unique. The first restaurant opened here on Rue des Poulies (now Rue du Louvre), around 1765. For several years now, the history of Paris has occupied his thoughts: the history of its cuisine, from simple fare to cuisine bourgeoise and dishes for royal tables; the history of its market gardeners, breeders and regional specialities: saffron from Le Gâtinais, mint from Milly-la-Forêt, Houdan chicken and the leafy purple ball of Pontoise cabbage. Farmers, cressgrowers, market gardeners, breeders and beekeepers have accepted the chef’s invitation to revive the traditions of one of France’s richest agricultural regions. Reawakening Parisian cuisine… Yannick Alléno has set himself the task of reawakening old, forgotten or obsolete recipes by adapting them to today’s tastes with all the talent and savoir-faire of his team, such as Normandy sole, first served in the early 1830s at a restaurant on Rue Montorgueil, lobster à l’américaine, invented by Pierre Fraise (alias Peter’s), or Anna potatoes and puffed potatoes with Bearnaise sauce, created in Saint-Germain-en-Laye. His fricassée of Le Gâtinais chicken with artichoke and potatoes is his tribute, with a modern twist, to the dish served at Au Cabaret du Père Lathuile in 1790. History lives on… Yannick Alléno refuses the notion of an outdated, static cuisine. And so he is writing his own Parisian history of inventive and appetizing dishes made with ingredients we too often overlook. Garden cress is served with crayfish; confit au jus, the astonishing violet leaves of Pontoise cabbage make a marvellous accompaniment to crisp veal sweetbreads. Naturally, Le Meurice’s Terroir Parisien lunch menu is the epitome of this living, modern cuisine. The Terroir Parisien menu is served from Monday to Friday, 12.30pm to 2pm, at Restaurant le Meurice. 78 euros (four courses, drinks not included). Reservations: +33 (0)1 44 58 10 55
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